This Hearty Pork Bone Soup Will Cure All That Ails You

Late-night food choices are different all over the world, but in my opinion, there are few places that have greater appeal (and sheer variety of options) than Malaysia, especially in the Klang Valley metropolis that includes Kuala Lumpur and the surrounding territories. Tom yum, tandoori chicken, street burgers—it’s hard to go hungry when wandering the streets after hours. And for those up for a little drive, there’s pork bone soup, or bak kut teh, waiting for them. 

The eponymous port township of Klang sits at the west end of Klang Valley, about 30 minutes from Kua Lumpur’s city center without traffic. It’s an important part of Kuala Lumpur’s economic past and present, home to a sizable Hokkien Chinese population descended from those who emigrated to Malaya (pre-independence Malaysia) to work at the shipyards. It’s also home to the Malaysian Hokkien version of bak kut teh, a hearty broth of pork bones plus herbs and spices used in Traditional Chinese Medicine (TCM). Bak kut teh is now served for breakfast, lunch, and dinner in Klang and around Klang Valley, but is particularly adored as an option for late-night feasting. After a strenuous night of clubbing, it’s not uncommon to hear, “Let’s drive to Klang for bak kut teh.”

“Bak kut” translates to “pork bones” in Hokkien. While some have translated “teh” as “tea,” there are stories that claim the recipe comes from a cook named “Teh.” Whichever it is, it is generally accepted that bak kut teh became popular in the early 20th century as a way to feed the port workers. Two main factors come into play here: First, the use of meat bones (usually pork), which supplies collagen, protein, and various minerals; and second, the use of specific herbs and spices brought over from China to add traditional medicinal value to the broth. This was an extremely effective and inexpensive way to boost the health of the workers, and purportedly helped keep afflictions like arthritis at bay.

These days, bak kut teh is eaten simply because it’s delicious. Deeply flavored, nourishing, and comforting, it’s one of those broths that reminds you of home, even if you’ve never had it before. The exact mix of herbs and spices differs from cook to cook, but there are several that are common throughout: star anise, fennel seeds, cloves, and cassia bark (Chinese cinnamon). Various roots and berries in different ratios make up the rest of the ingredients, angelica root (当归) and Solomon’s seal (玉竹), two aromatic roots that are commonly used and lend a warming mouthfeel to the broth. Hot tea is usually served with bak kut teh as well, as it helps cut through the fat in the broth.

Bak kut teh is customizable to a certain point, and not every single herb and spice is absolutely necessary for a hearty broth. In the 80s, my aunt, who was studying in Little Rock, Arkansas, was longing for a taste of home, but wasn’t able to purchase all the herbs and spices required to make the broth. Her mother (my grandmother) then invented a three-herb version using angelica root, Szechuan lovage, and star anise. Though closer to the lighter Teochew version of bak kut teh popular in Singapore (albeit less peppery), it did the job.

If you’re not in the mood to hunt down individual ingredients, you can find pre-mixed herbs online, so you only need to add the meats, produce, and sauces. Keep in mind, though, that prepackaged spices can often be old and dusty, so you’re better off using your own fresh spices (plus, you can alter the ratios when making your own to suit your tastes). Really, that’s the hardest part, and it’s not even hard—once the herbs and spices are acquired, it’s relatively easy to prepare bak kut teh at home.