Brazo de Mercedes (Filipino Meringue Roll) Recipe

Based on the title alone, I personally wouldn’t eat a dish called the “arm of Mercedes,” named after Our Lady of Mercy, even if it promises some divine gift. But this pillowy meringue roll filled with a rich citrus-scented custard is irresistible. It is a true celebration of eggs: A dozen egg whites are whipped up to make the baked meringue and a dozen egg yolks enrich the custard. In the past, this meringue custard roll was reserved for special events and gatherings, but in recent times, bakery chains have made it widely accessible. It is now often served as a merienda (snack) or an after-dinner panghimagas (dessert).

I have a deep connection to this saccharine treat. As a kid I had such a massive sweet tooth that my lola (grandmother) used to hide and ration chocolates and candies at home. That didn’t deter me from grabbing a sweet snack from a panaderia on my way home from school. I used to drool over these custard-filled meringue logs and would beg my aunt to buy me a slice to take home, although it rarely made it all the way home intact. The version I remember best from one particular panaderia had custard with a distinct citrusy tone. I later found out it used the zest from dayap, popularly known as key lime. In further research I learned that zests from native citrus like calamansi or pomelo are sometimes used as well.

The core of this dish is the sweet and citrus-tinged custard that is enveloped in the airy meringue. The inspiration for the custard is yema (Spanish for “egg yolk”), a sweet, soft confection made with egg yolks and sugar that’s thickened and shaped into balls or pyramids and wrapped in colorful cellophane. Some variants of yema include chopped peanuts or cashews, and milk or condensed milk.

It’s believed that yema originated in the Philippines during the Spanish colonization. Egg whites and egg shells were mixed with limestone and crushed coral and used as construction material to build churches. The eggs’ albumen proved to be such a strong adhesive that a lot of these colonial churches are still standing today. To use the surplus of discarded egg yolks, Filipinos incorporated them into custard confections such as yema.

Sadly, as an adult, I no longer have the same palate for indulgently sweet desserts. So in my yema-inspired custard, I’ve used ground cashews and a generous amount of lemon zest to cut through the sweetness. The addition of heavy cream ensures a smooth and creamy texture. Toasting the sugar for the meringue provides welcome caramel notes that transform the final dessert from a cloyingly sweet confection to a more balanced dessert I now savor as an adult.

Despite its grown-up refinements, my brazo de Mercedes recipe still calls back to the flavor of those rainbow-colored balls of yema, the egg yolk candy I loved as a child. This sweet arm of Mercedes may not be divine, but it magically makes me feel 7 years old again.